05 February 2010
Life in surferland
I saw this guy's bike surfboard rack and thought it was so cool that I geeked out and asked him if I could take photos of it. He was cooperative and wanted to tell me all about it.
He said it's not just eco-friendly and economical - it has another advantage:
"If it's cold and you drive down to the beach, you get out and of the car and you're cold," he said. "And then if it's big [the waves] and you have to paddle out, you're all stiff and not warmed up.
"But if you ride your bike to the beach, even if it's cold, you're warm when you get here and you're ready to go surf!"
I don't surf but I love living near a great surf spot. Watching surfers is the best meditation ever. There's something so relaxing about watching them be so graceful and daring and even considerate as they weave in and out among each other on the crowded waves.
Surfers and surf culture help make this a great place to live, because surfers are usually in a good mood - if the waves are good. I think it's hard to be stressed after you have spent a couple hours working out while simultaneously doing something really, really fun.